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Pedal Kit supply and fitting

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#21 ·
Re: Pedal kit - question

MrPix said:
I drove my S-Type 2.7D Sport for 18 months... and then discovered it kicked down/launched if I added a little more force..... it was my son's favourite button/feature.....
Click to expand...
After nearly nine months of ownership, I just discovered the kickdown feature! ...It always shifted down just fine, but some times I felt it could go another cog, so I would pull on the downshift paddle for that extra 'whoomf'.

Being a 'sympathetic' driver, I squeeze the throttle, not stamp on it, and I'd always stopped when I felt the resistance... well, whilst out dragging a Golf GTi a couple of weeks back, I wanted to press the pedal into the axminister a bit harder, to get that little bit more and 'click' down another cog and the GTi is getting smaller and smaller in the rear view. Schweet! ...now I have to use the paddles even less. :D

One of these days I will read the manual.
;)
 
#22 ·
Fitting chrome foot pedals on XF

Any ideas on how to fit the original XF Chrome foot pedals.

I have had a look at the original fitted pedal and it does not have any screw sticking out with a nut to tighten it up with. Where as the XF chrome pedal has a screw and a nut to tighten.

Attached is the picture of the fitted pedal.
 
#28 ·
Fitting the gas pedal

Hi

I recently bought the Jaguar alloy pedal kit for my Jaguar XF and I'm having lots of problems fitting the gas pedal. The brake was ok, although still hard to reach the back, but there's is no way I can get the nut on the screw in the small space available in the UK right hand drive XF.

There are some plastic protrusions that make it impossible for me to get any tool or even my fingers to tighten the nut. I spent more than 1 hour bent down in constorsionist style positions to no avail.

Can someone help? How did some of the people in this forum do it? Is there a way to remove the pedal itself first, to then fit the plate outside the car more comfortably? or can I remove the plastic panelling to the side to gain better access? Or perhaps I need to cut or file down some of the plastic protrusions in the back to fit the nut?

Please help!! I don't want to take the car to a jaguar garage when I already did half the job, and lose a day or more in the process.


MikeF said:
I fitted the pedal kit myself a couple of years ago. I can absolutely assure mindbrother that there is no way they can affect the movement or performance of the pedals themselves.

There was a lot of conversation on another forum ;) (mostly from a numpty) who thought they might be slippery. Again, after 40K miles in all weathers they weren't slippy; in fact probably less than the standard rubbers.

It's a simple DIY job to fit them (if you have a cordless drill for a single hole in the metal acellerator pedal) and I smiled every time I got in the car in the dark, when the footwell light shows them off. Hardly anyone knew they were there, but that's part of the secret satisfaction of an XF :D

PS I'm a newbie on this forum (some may know me from the other one). I guess I'll have to earn my stripes all over again!
Click to expand...
 
#29 ·
Yup, this is the fake kickdown point engineered into the electronic throttle pedal. Quaint! In the olden days it actually actuated a cable to provoke the transmission to kick down.

Funny thing, because this is my first automatic car I was unaware of this "feature". I drove the whole running in period thinking the kick down point was full throttle! The first time I "buried it in the carpet" was a revelation.
 
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#30 ·
Kasper, I have been in exactly the same position as you in regards to the fitting of the bright pedal kit. The brake pedal just needs the two hole to be drilled into the pedal and then the new kit bolted on. The accelerator sadly has a plastic pedal that does not allow any access.

Subsequently I made my own access...I drilled the required bolt hole into the plastic pedal such that the bright pedal accelerator lined up and looked as it should. Once I knew where the bolt hole came out (you can't see behind the plastic pedal unless you use a mirror). Find a long bolt of the correct diameter and MUCH longer that you need. Screw a bolt on the end of it and at least 3 to 4 washers of a diameter bigger than the diameter of the socket set you are using to tighten the final nut with.

This will mean that you have a bolt with 3 to 4 washers held on by a nut that you can feed from behind the plastic accelerator pedal through the bolt hole you have previously drilled. When it is in the bolt hole mark with a black pen (board marker is ideal) around the bolt.

Take the bolt (washer/nut assembly) out. See the black pen marking and gauge the depth. Now the tricky bit...

Blowtorch your bolt/washer/nut assembly until it is red hot! Quickly move it away from the heat source into the car, under the accelerator pedal into the bolt hole and pull up until the black pen marking is a good 5 to 8mm through the pedal. The plastic smell with be insane. Before it completely cools pull the bolt assembly back out the back of the pedal.

This will have created enough space for your bright pedal to be placed over the plastic accelerator and space to get the nut on the back and importantly the socket needed to tighten it.

BUT DONT' set fire to yourself, your carpet, your whole car, put the hot bolt assembly right through the plastic pedal!

Good luck.
 
#31 ·
thanks for that tip, TobyH. Glad to know I'm not alone with the problem, perhaps the older models had a different pedal that allowed for easier mounting.

I'm a bit worried about taking such a drastic measure as to burn through the plastic in the pedal. Won't it make it weaker? i was thinking of something similar, even cutting with pliers to make space, but I'm worried to weaken the structure of such an important thing as an accelerator pedal in a car, which can affect long term wear and tear.

In any case, even with a little more space, how did you manage to tighten the nut? I can't get any tool around the back of the pedal. What did you use?
 
#32 ·
kasper said:
Hi

I recently bought the Jaguar alloy pedal kit for my Jaguar XF and I'm having lots of problems fitting the gas pedal. The brake was ok, although still hard to reach the back, but there's is no way I can get the nut on the screw in the small space available in the UK right hand drive XF.

There are some plastic protrusions that make it impossible for me to get any tool or even my fingers to tighten the nut. I spent more than 1 hour bent down in constorsionist style positions to no avail.

Can someone help? How did some of the people in this forum do it? Is there a way to remove the pedal itself first, to then fit the plate outside the car more comfortably? or can I remove the plastic panelling to the side to gain better access? Or perhaps I need to cut or file down some of the plastic protrusions in the back to fit the nut?

Please help!! I don't want to take the car to a jaguar garage when I already did half the job, and lose a day or more in the process.
Click to expand...
There is more than one version of the pedal kit. I discovered this when swopping the SS covers from my original 2009MY 2.7D to it's replacement 2010MY 3.0D S. Only the gas pedal cover is different and it is impossible to fit and tighten the retaining screws. I secured the SS cover with epoxy resin and superglue, which was as solid as a rock. I suspect you may have the wrong kit for the MY of your car.
 
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#33 ·
Kasper, I know what you mean in regards to weakening the pedal. It was a concern, which was why I went with the melting route rather than the cutting route. Melting a tubular shape into the back of the pedal allowed the melted plastic to reharden around the shape I had created such as to reinforce the pedal rather than cutting pieces off and subsequently removing plastic.

Once space around the bolt / nut assembly has been created use a socket set. I think the nut is 8mm and this was the smallest socket than I had. I was able to get the socket around the nut and then hand wound the nut onto the back of the pedal until I could not turn it anymore. I then attached the ratchet and clicked it round doing small movements until the nut was tight.

Penultimateblacks approach could work. If you weren't happy with the melting idea. Use your bolt pilot hole to locate the pedal and then glue the rubber layer onto the plastic pedal and then glue the chrome to the rubber layer, clearing off any excess with a suitable solvent to keep the appearance. This would have been my plan B if the melting route had not worked.
 
#34 ·
I have just remembered - having used epoxy/superglue to stick the rubber to the mild steel gas pedal and the SS cover screws into the holes I drilled in in the said pedal, I then surrounded the protruding SS screws with a generous wad of epoxy putty. Sorry about that, it was over two years ago.
 
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#35 ·
Sport Pedals

Well bought a set off e Bay second hand.:D
Arrived today,thought fit them at the weekend........:p
About 9.15 nothing on the TV so out to the garage to have a look.....:)
Thought just fit the accelerator as it was only 1 bolt.
4.5mm drill, using rubber insert as pattern......5 secs later fit pedal
tighten 7mm nut up.:)
Ah well may as well drill the brake pedal and get finished..

Had a struggle getting the pedal rubber of to reveal the 2 fixing holes already there....."briiliant" tighten up the 7mm pins.....job done
Took longer to put all the tools away that do the job.
Easiest mod ever:)
 
#37 ·
I realize this is going to sound Obsessive, but I have taken to covering my peadls in clear plastic bags:eek:. Reason being the pedals were starting to get scuffed. A bit of chrome polish helps reduce it, but in order to maintain there condtion, can see no way round it. I think probably a serious example of OCD!

Regards
Keith
 
#40 ·
The pre MY 10 pedal kit has a clip on accelerator pedal, only the later ones have be drilled.
You will find on a later car as I did the brake pedal holes already there!
 
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