[alex7127]

If bms is not changed to this battery parameters (can't be done with sdd - apparently possible with some other software), car will be overcharging it constantly, which will kill it prematurely. Battery that is.

This is my understanding from info gathered recently on jags bms.

Agreed, with SDD it presumes you are replacing like for like.

 

[alex7127]

Glad you got it sorted but I agree with Alex, I would be inclined to get the correct spec battery.

Agreed

 

[Bik3rz]

Agreed

Agree with the agreed

 

[Hatchback4ever]

This just happened to my car, out of the blue, as one might put it.
I have subscribed to this thread to follow and read your suggestions, that are invaluable so far.

Everything is Jaguar original in the car, including electrical parts like batteries and alternator.

 

[Hatchback4ever]

So I hooked up a OBD reader. Actually two, I have a bluetooth Icarsoft and a regular Icarsoft with Cable, the i930 one.
The bluetooth does not detect any errors, the i930 detected about 40 entries, and while that seemed more than expected, well it is all the codes stored over well over a year since last service.

Question is, what am I looking for? Which do I try to clear?

... etc.

 

[Hatchback4ever]

Was able to get into the dashboard engineering mode. Zero DTC's.

System is now warning battery power as low. I guess I will have to start a charging cycle.

 

[Bik3rz]

Always clear all dtc and see what comes back, as you said, most of them will be old.

Are you sure low battery msg isn't for the keyfob?

 

[Hatchback4ever]

Always clear all dtc and see what comes back, as you said, most of them will be old.

Are you sure low battery msg isn't for the keyfob?

Sorry, what is keyfob...?

Wait, you mean for the smart key? No. it is not.

Below that it said Battery not loading, or rather its corresponding translation in Swedish.

 

[Hatchback4ever]

Voltage with motor running: 11.5.
Seems the battery might need changing.

And probably important to follow @ricardo 's description

1. Unlock the car
2. Open and close the driver’s door (this ensures the alarm won't auto re-arm)
3. Open the tailgate/boot
4. Move keys away from car - leave in house not in pocket!
5. Wait 20/30 minutes
6. Disconnect the negative terminal
7. Disconnect the positive terminal

The important thing is to let everything shut down and not bring the keys back to the car until the battery is back on or it will wake everything up again. Some have got away with not following the above but others have ended up in the world of pain. Best to be on the safe side in my opinion.

 

[Bik3rz]

Yes meant smart key. Ok fair enough👍

 

[Bik3rz]

Voltage with motor running: 11.5.
Seems the battery might need changing.

And probably important to follow @ricardo 's description

Definitely too low.

 

[alex7127]

11.5 volts with the engine running? If so that would indicate alternator....should be putting out 14+ volts out when charging.

I have changed many batteries in Jags, including last XF and both batteries in current R. I have never done all this open that, close this and throw the keys in a bush. All I have ever done is removed batteries, waited a few mins for capacitors etc in Modules to power down, then reconnect new battery. I think it's more important to smoothly reconnect the terminals on the new battery. If you faff about and cause arcing by being tentative ie make connection, reach for your socket set, lose connection, then reconnect all in a split second, this is what modules do not like. It's a bit like turning your laptop off while it is booting up. Same principle.

 

[Hatchback4ever]

11.5 volts with the engine running? If so that would indicate alternator....should be putting out 14+ volts out when charging.

I have changed many batteries in Jags, including last XF and both batteries in current R. I have never done all this open that, close this and throw the keys in a bush. All I have ever done is removed batteries, waited a few mins for capacitors etc in Modules to power down, then reconnect new battery. I think it's more important to smoothly reconnect the terminals on the new battery. If you faff about and cause arcing by being tentative ie make connection, reach for your socket set, lose connection, then reconnect all in a split second, this is what modules do not like. It's a bit like turning your laptop off while it is booting up. Same principle.

I will call my workshop on Monday to get their opinion, but it is great to have a clue about what's going on.
Yes, 11,5 seems low for a running engine, but I have yet to see any error codes that would indicate the alternator, if that would even give any error code at all.
We'll see.

 

[alex7127]

If the voltage doesn't change when engine off or on then it's most definitely the charging circuit. Can you access thd alternator itself under the bonnet and with a meter measure what the alternator is putting out at source. That will narrow it down

 

[Hatchback4ever]

If the voltage doesn't change when engine off or on then it's most definitely the charging circuit. Can you access thd alternator itself under the bonnet and with a meter measure what the alternator is putting out at source. That will narrow it down

I do not see the alternator, I guess to much plastic in the way... 😒
Set a charger and battery is taking charge fine, CTek charger. This morning it was actually showing above 12 volts.
Leaning towards alternator, right now, but we'll see

 

[sportbrakePhil]

...
Everything is Jaguar original in the car, including electrical parts like batteries and alternator.

If by "Jaguar original" you mean that the battery is around 10 years old, you should really replace it anyway - if it fails with short circuited cells it might end up killing the alternator too, and 10 years is a good service life for a battery. Also batteries are cheap compared with the labor involved replacing the alternator at least on the 3.0D.

It sounds like the alternator has already failed, but it could be a fault with the GWM or linbus wiring. It's worth checking the fault codes with something that will read full length codes from all modules e.g. Autel AP-200 or SDD. On my car when the alternator failed I found P065C-01 set in the GWM

 

[Hatchback4ever]

Ended up changing the alternator. Battery is ok.
1300 €.

Will also change the battery, but not necessary with those double priced start-stop type batteries. According to the Jaguar workshop it is just wasted money.

 

[Bik3rz]

Jags system are based on certain spec, so not sure i would risk putting non agm battery, defo not less cranks etc

 

[sportbrakePhil]

Ended up changing the alternator. Battery is ok.
1300 €.

Will also change the battery, but not necessary with those double priced start-stop type batteries. According to the Jaguar workshop it is just wasted money.

I hope you're not looking at dealer price for the battery, the likes of Exide EK950 are pretty reasonable, and as Bik3rz said the charging system is set up to deal with AGM ( correct charging voltages, State of health monitoring etc )

 

[alex7127]

Try Tayna batteries. They are reasonable, many of us have used them. Next day delivery too.