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Want to check my BCM

7.7K views 38 replies 4 participants last post by  alex7127  
I had similar issues on my 09 XF. The bottom of the washer bottle and all the tubing to washer jets was full of a gooey gunk. I believe this is from chemical reactions between differing brands of screen wash. Yes....they are all chemically different lol. Anyway I took the pump out of the washer bottle and flushed it out with hosepipe and yup loads of goo came out. I can't remember what I did with all the tubing. One way to do it is to disconnect them from jets and force water through with large syringe. That's how I diy clean lines these days anyway. Don't forget the clean all the jet heads up too....both from behind where tube joins and jet hoke itself with pin/needle

Why do you suspect water ingress in the BCM? Does it look wet or signs of having been wet? Also which BCM, there are two. One in the boot (rh side I think) and one in passenger's foot well. Without looking at wiring diagrams it would make wiring common sense thar the front BCM controls the washer bottle motor and commands.

Also I have said it countless times to people the best way to check for faults is to get yourself a JLR SDD set up. If you intend on maintaining the car yourself then I'm afraid this is the only accurate way forward. SDD is designed by and used by JLR dealers. I'm not saying 'other' plug in devices are rubbish.....but they are not comprehensive and all covering like SDD is.
 
owns 2014 Jaguar XF R
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Does this wiring diagram help?
 

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No it won't tell you about water. But it would have stored both permanent and intermittent faults that could indicate something is not quite right with the module itself. I've used fan heaters on a low setting and hairdryers to dry out damp electrics before. Are any connectors corroded?
 
owns 2014 Jaguar XF R
Best option for SDD is buy a kit. Sellers on ebay. In the region of £350 I think. Consists of Lenovo Thinkpad with just SDD preloaded and a genuine Mongoose cable. That's what I bought. I can link you the seller if you want?
 
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Well if you disconnect the car battery then the BMS will need resetting with....you have guessed it.....SDD lol

But if it was me I would not disconnect any cables from Modules with the car battery connected, for fear of corrupted anything. I would disconnect the car battery. Leave the car for a few hours for all modules to fully power themselves down. Then pull connectors off to check for any corrosion
 
Yes it's all set up to go.....
This is the exact setup Ash and I purchased, so can vouch for the quality. 👍👍👍

 
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It's maybe on the other side. The one I received was a Mongoose cable.Very reputable seller. This is obviously his business so I doubt he would sell rubbish. Anyway these days it's hard to tell what's genuine and what's not. Sometimes the knock offs are just ad good as the real thing.

Anyway, that is the exact same seller and set up that I bought from and it is A1 okay.
 
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This Is the cable I received. Genuine Mongoose...well who knows huh. But works as it should 👍
 

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You need a power supply unit, not a charger. One providing 40amps will be plenty. A PSU supplying in the high 13volts, say 13.8volts would be sufficient. A charger unfortunately provides a dirty charge, ie could cause voltage spiking. Whereas a PSU provides a much cleaner power supply.

If you are just changing vehicle settings for example in the CCF then as long as your battery is fully charged then you do not even need a PSU. Both myself and AshM-T have done lots of CCF changes just using the battery.

A PSU is probably needed if for example you had to flash a module for a few hours.
 
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Basically yes. These are typically what are referred to as Computer Server PSU's.

You need one that has the ability to adjust the voltage up and down via an adjuster screw, as you need approximately 13.8v. One of 40amp current would be sufficient.

Then all you have to do is solder on some high current cables to it.....many people sacrifice a pair of jumper cables.
 
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You can buy them with an inbuilt voltage adjuster. Just search the net. 👍 or buy one like Bik3rz found 👍
 
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Or this, I just found. It's rated at 30amps max. Which with the ventilation system, infotainment system and all lighting turned off in the car...I reckon will be fine to support SDD usage😃

 
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I don't understand what you are getting at🤔
 
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Old Post I know but being a Master tuner the best value for money voltage stabiliser is the MST 90.
Master MST90 14V, 120A Programming Voltage Stabilizer
And how much does that cost.....
 
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