I've owned my 2.7 diesel for just over a month now but I believe on start up exhaust fumes are entering my car. I have checked this out with a carbon monoxide alarm but the alarm doesn't sound. Has anyone else had similar problems with fumes? :roll:
It might not NEED cats / DPFs to met the regs but it certainly has a DPF (see the forum for all the DPF probs). I cant be certain it has a Cat but I would certainly expect so.I found this information:
The 3.0-litre diesel capitalises on the car's lightweight design with weight saving measures of its own it uses numerous aluminium parts and a cylinder block made from compact graphite iron which is stronger than conventional iron and allows a smaller block to be used. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation system channels exhaust gasses back into the engine where more of the pollutants are burned off. In combination with the advanced combustion system, this means that the XF diesel doesn't need catalytic converters or particulate filters to meet European emissions regulations, which further reduces costs. (http://www.buyacar.co.uk/cars/jaguar/jaguar_xf/review_jaguar_xf_3_0_diesel_3174.jhtml)
Is the info right that the catalytic convertor is not used on the 3 liter diesels, but only with the 2.7 liter diesel XF?
Brilliant information thanks very muchHi – Sorry about the delay.
The good news is that you can see if there is a problem fairly easily. Get the car up on ramps / axle stands, removed the front under tray (6 bolts). The cats (wide section in the exhaust) are mounted vertically on either side of the gearbox. At the top of the Cats there is a 90 degree elbow, At the end of the elbow is the flexi joint and flange that bolts to the back of the turbo flange. The flexi joint is covered by a wire gasket. If the wire gasket and surrounding area (heat shield) is black with soot then the flexi is leaking..
Now, removing the cats is awkward – like every job it’s about having the correct tools! The cats are fixed to the car in 3 places and have 2 electrical sensors. First is an exhaust clamp between the Cat and DPF – very easy to remove. Second is a bracket around the cat – 3 bolts, also easy to remove but you will need a socket with extension bar. Before you remove these 3 bolts make sure you support the cat so all the weight isn’t on the flexi joint. Third, and very awkward, are the three nuts which clamp the turbo and cat flange together. You will need a few long socket set extension bars and two universal joints. Its impossible to get a spanner in there… Fortunately they aren’t very tight, in fact on TOPIX it doesn’t even give a torque, just “Loosely tighten”. Its well worth a look on TOPIX by the way.
When you put the Cats back make sure they are perfectly orientated, they must be perfectly vertical and exactly 90 degrees to the turbo – As bad as the flexi design is I think poor installation was partly the cause in my car, they were not mounted perfectly vertical, this puts excess strain on an already very poor flexible joint. I didn’t replace the flexi – it had split at the flange so just had a it re-welded to the flange. 5 min job once the things were off the car!!
So in summary the fault was caused, like most things in life, by numerous minor problems – Bad design, a poor engineering solution, poor detail manufacture (welding) and poor installation (not straight). The result – busted flexi…
Good point any answers would be welcome, mine is nearly 4yrs old and has 16.500mls on it and no probs yet.Is the Cats problem, when observed, the result of age or mileage? Would any of those who have experienced the problem be kind enough to record their approximate mileage when first noticed. Have any low mileage owners with 2.7D vehicles in the 3 to 4 years old age group had similar negative experiences with their Cats. Mine has done 21000 miles in coming up for 4 years (Mar 12) and so far no problem.
Is driving style a factor or is it all down to poor engineering? If any victim of the syndrome gets cross with this question I will fully appreciate their feelings and apologise in advance.
Thanks for the info, done that today, no sooty stuff apparent. September 2008 car 35k miles.The good news is that you can see if there is a problem fairly easily. Get the car up on ramps / axle stands, removed the front under tray (6 bolts). The cats (wide section in the exhaust) are mounted vertically on either side of the gearbox. At the top of the Cats there is a 90 degree elbow, At the end of the elbow is the flexi joint and flange that bolts to the back of the turbo flange. The flexi joint is covered by a wire gasket. If the wire gasket and surrounding area (heat shield) is black with soot then the flexi is leaking..
Just to advise that there are 1 or 2 different spanners that can get to the 13mm nuts in question one being a half moon ratchet, another being an extra long spanner (but that would only get the lower two nuts),the third and this is a brilliant spanner long handle with a right hand bend at the end gets perfectly onto the top nut (removing the heat shield with the 10mm bolts on, will give you some extra movement). But also if the nuts start to stiffen stop undoing spray a little lube and just wait 5 mins for the stud /nut to cool down as it WILL snap if you don'tHi – Sorry about the delay.
The good news is that you can see if there is a problem fairly easily. Get the car up on ramps / axle stands, removed the front under tray (6 bolts). The cats (wide section in the exhaust) are mounted vertically on either side of the gearbox. At the top of the Cats there is a 90 degree elbow, At the end of the elbow is the flexi joint and flange that bolts to the back of the turbo flange. The flexi joint is covered by a wire gasket. If the wire gasket and surrounding area (heat shield) is black with soot then the flexi is leaking..
Now, removing the cats is awkward – like every job it’s about having the correct tools! The cats are fixed to the car in 3 places and have 2 electrical sensors. First is an exhaust clamp between the Cat and DPF – very easy to remove. Second is a bracket around the cat – 3 bolts, also easy to remove but you will need a socket with extension bar. Before you remove these 3 bolts make sure you support the cat so all the weight isn’t on the flexi joint. Third, and very awkward, are the three nuts which clamp the turbo and cat flange together. You will need a few long socket set extension bars and two universal joints. Its impossible to get a spanner in there… Fortunately they aren’t very tight, in fact on TOPIX it doesn’t even give a torque, just “Loosely tighten”. Its well worth a look on TOPIX by the way.
When you put the Cats back make sure they are perfectly orientated, they must be perfectly vertical and exactly 90 degrees to the turbo – As bad as the flexi design is I think poor installation was partly the cause in my car, they were not mounted perfectly vertical, this puts excess strain on an already very poor flexible joint. I didn’t replace the flexi – it had split at the flange so just had a it re-welded to the flange. 5 min job once the things were off the car!!
So in summary the fault was caused, like most things in life, by numerous minor problems – Bad design, a poor engineering solution, poor detail manufacture (welding) and poor installation (not straight). The result – busted flexi…
This could just be the DPF going through its cleaning proceedure which is perfectly normal.Then sitting at traffic lights yesterday I could smell something like burned diesel fumes which made me think of this problem, but they could have been from another car.
When I got out of the car I noticed the engine didn't sound very smooth either, so I wondered does this problem cause an uneven soft chugging noise at idle as well, although I couldn't see or smell any fumes under the bonnet?
I've replaced a fewI take it youve fixed the flexi(s) before then?