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Good luck Dos, looking back on my earlier thread it's looks like 50/50 for getting out if its seized, from the responses it seems some managed it and some snapped the stud, let's hope yours comes out.
Once I got mine moving I used a similar technique to when cutting a new thread, ie, for every new quarter of a turn out I made, I then made a quarter turn back in again, hopefully allowing the corrosion to loosen and clear away from the thread rather than compacting into the thread if I had continued turning it out, I got there in the end and hopefully so will you
 

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Although more money (~£100) I've read a lot of good reports about hydrogen (carbon) cleaning, particularly on older diesels. There's lots of info. on-line. Also, the main companies seem to do a full diagnostic as part of the process. I'm contemplating having it done.
Anyone on here with any personal experience they can share?
Not on a diesel engine, but I had my Mazda MX5 1.8l done in Spain last year. (The initial diagnosis had been clogged valves, possibly due to the car standing idle for several months each year).
During the cleaning process, which lasted longer than I would have expected, the car was run at very high revs.

After the clean, I was unable to detect any significant difference, but I did have a subsequent diagnosis, via a pressure test, that I had either burnt out valves, or piston/piston ring damage in cylinder 4.

After the event, I began to wonder what caused what.
Was my initial problem due to a valve or piston/ring issue ?
Did the aggressive cleaning process create a problem I didn't have before ?
 

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2010 XFS PL. Porcelain, B&W , HID bi xenon, rear camera.
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Thanks for your encouragement Warrior.
I had been thinking about your suggestion to get lubricant on to the top of the clamp screw where it goes into the nut. I had hopefully dripped fluid onto the large washer and it's surround more in hope than expectation a couple of days ago. So, this morning I drilled a hole about 2.5mm dia. adjacent to the collar where the screw goes down through the misfuelling tool holder. I didn't know what exactly to find, but the hole around the screw is quite large and the screw threads are visible so I am able to get fluid to go down the thread to the nut. As you suggested I'll now leave it for a while to soak into the offending region. Fortunately at the moment I'm not in a desperate situation, although as a full time carer I only have a few moments now and again to do things for myself.
Dos.
 

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2010 XFS PL. Porcelain, B&W , HID bi xenon, rear camera.
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Hi Warrior.
You can add my removed clamp screw to the list of those your advice has helped. Once cracked open by tightening it came out cleanly using short undo/do up turns as though tapping a thread. Liberal covering of anti seize copper grease and underside protection.
Dos.
 

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Hi Warrior. You can add my removed clamp screw to the list of those your advice has helped. Once cracked open by tightening it came out cleanly using short undo/do up turns as though tapping a thread. Liberal covering of anti seize copper grease and underside protection. Dos.
Great news Dos, going forwards check and re-grease annually, I did this for the first couple of years after battle number one, then forgot about it, and a few months ago I had battle number two with the damn thing all over again when I was needing to change the 5 year old battery!!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks for the replies, folks.

The battery was replaced and I've done a week's worth of driving. The only thing that's changed is that the windscreen washers have now packed up. Press the button on the stalk and the wipers come on but no jet. Checked the level and the fuse. I can't actually hear the pump going but I don't know if that's normal. Oh, and I've been trying to work out how to set it so the internal lights come on when I open the door. That's fixed itself with the battery change.

Fuel consumption is still crap - 444 miles and 68 litres on the last tank = about 29mpg despite the computer telling me it's averaged 45mpg since I filled up and reset the trip
Low engine oil pressure warning still comes on when stopped in traffic if I leave the car in 'D' - Oil level is fine. Not rising or falling

It's booked in on the 7th to have a ding on the bonnet repaired. Once that's done, it's going. Even if I have to use webuyanycar.com, I can't put up with a lemon like this. I love driving but I hate driving *this* car.
 

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It's sad you're getting rid, but understandable. Please don't write the XF off completely. As you mention, yours seems like a lemon, and I'm sure you'd have better luck If you tried a different XF (a 3.0Ltr if you could stretch to it).
 

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A comment on the computer MPG, are you using the A, B, or Auto guage? On Auto it measures for the actual journey you are on, so resets after you switch off. A & B run continuous until you reset them. As an example I leave A alone, reset B at each fill up, and leave it showing auto on daily driving.

With the washer bottle it could just be the filter that is clogged up, relatively simple job to look at as it is behind the OSF wheel liner, just whip the wheel off and loosen a few screws. Mine was full of gunk, cleaned it out and it was fine.

Oil pressure light may just be the sender playing up, unless there is a more fundamental problem.
 

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I bought my 08 2.7d last June with 59k on the clock and a good service history. Within a week, the DPF light came on and it wouldn't regenerate. Luckily the dealer split the cost of a new DPF with me and I figured I was back on track with a car that should outlive me. It's a Jaguar, after all.

I have to say that it's the worst car I've owned. I got rid of my MG ZT V6 just because I thought it was getting on a bit and I should get something more economic. Brim to brim, it's getting about the same MPG doing exactly the same sort of driving. The computer says 38mpg over a tank. Brim to brim tests put it closer to 28mpg.

I do 40 miles each way for work at an average of about 40mph. Most of it is sitting at 50 to 60mph.

The DPF light comes on every 4 or 5 weeks. I take it the longer route home where I do more of the journey on the motorway and it goes off after about 25 miles. I'm guessing this is probably normal behaviour?

But I get other weird problems as well...

If it's wet - i.e. raining hard or I take it through the car wash, it comes up with an error saying that it can't apply the parking brake. This only goes off once the car has been off for a while.

As an experiment, I drove my usual route in 'S' mode for a couple of days. The MPG on the computer goes up significantly. On my 40 miles commute, we're talking about 38 in 'D' and 45+ in 'S'. But in 'S' mode, towards the end of my journey, I get an error saying low engine oil pressure when I'm stopped in traffic with the car in gear. If I put the car in neutral and blip the throttle even a tiny amount, the light goes out. Back into 'S' and it comes on again. I reverted back to driving in 'D' and it hasn't happened again.

I've checked the oil and although it's at the top end, it's not going up so I don't think there's anything sinister there.

It's been to my trusted independent garage a couple of times for him to run diags and it comes back with about 4 pages of errors. He clears them and they stay away for a week and then come back. Just about everything has a fit. Mostly things like losing connection to different things. Might be the stereo, or a wing mirror or vent or something else seemingly random. Never anything that looks serious. No regen failures or anything like that. The guy who looks at it can't make head nor tail and he's a Jag fan with a new XE.

When it's behaving, I love this car. I love driving it. I love everything about it. But I have zero confidence in it. I've just bought my other half a 20 year old MGF for less than £1500 and I have more faith in that than my Jag.

So, have I just got a lemon? Should I call it a day and get shot? Or is there something anyone can glean from what I've said to throw any light on the problem? I want someone to say "Ah! I had this and it was the ?????". If it's reasonable, I'll spend the money.

Anyone throw me a lifeline?

Andy
Andy Hi
I got an XF pre-covid and exactly the same problem. i had my battery £148 capaacity 5000AH and problem went away but came baack again --> i am pulling my hair out and the electrics are so randomly operating. So i have now taken it to a specialist today who cleared all logs and stated its the ECM needing a re-map or change out £1600. I am now end of my patience and will keep you informed if its solved!
 

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Andy Hi
I got an XF pre-covid and exactly the same problem. i had my battery £148 capaacity 5000AH and problem went away but came baack again --> i am pulling my hair out and the electrics are so randomly operating. So i have now taken it to a specialist today who cleared all logs and stated its the ECM needing a re-map or change out £1600. I am now end of my patience and will keep you informed if its solved!
When testing your battery to see if it is failing, you need to test the CCA values against what the battery is rated for rather than the voltage. If the engine is not running but the accessories are, there will be a voltage drain, hence the lower voltage value displayed (which is a little low). You should also check to see that the battery fitted is the correct type of battery as was originally fitted in the factory. For example, my XF has a 95 AH 850 CCA AGM battery fitted, with the AGM type of battery being the correct type fitted from factory. If I replaced it with a flooded Lead Acid battery, after a period of time I would be seeing a lot of the same problems you are experiencing with fault codes.

Bear in mind that the correct AGM batteries are not cheap, but that is for good reason as they are not the same as your standard car battery. So if your car was designed to work with an AGM and it would have been fitted with one from factory, this is the only type of battery that should be fitted to it.

As best practice, AGM batteries should be replaced every 5 years and you should regularly have your alternator checked to ensure that it is outputting the correct rated amperage to keep the battery charged.

For a DPF regeneration burn, it requires more than just the mileage to sustain the burn. You have to sustain your speed above a specific velocity for more than 30 mins for the DFP burn to complete. a pattern of slowing down and speeding up will usually mean an incomplete regeneration cycle.
 
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