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I know this could have helped me when I did the first pad change, so as I was doing the full pad and disc change on the Jag rear I thought I would take some photos and do a small write up.

Basically it is an easy job for anyone with a little mechanical skills – I did it and I am a girlie!

In all seriousness though, the brakes are a key part of a car, so if you don’t feel competent enough – get it done by someone that is.

Obviously take the usual precautions, the vehicle will be off the ground on a jack and axle stands, so all the usual stuff – wear eye, ear, foot, hand – hell everywhere protection, disconnect the battery, keep kids away perhaps put an exclusion zone of several km around the work area – ban any low flying aircraft, order a national silence – remember stairs can go down as well as up; and so-on basically if you are stupid or careless enough to hurt yourselves or others it’s your fault don’t try to deflect the blame on me I am just writing up how I did/do the job!



Assemble the parts and tools required:

You will need a 15mm spanner, or socket and wrench combo, (You do NOT need a 7mm hex wrench [allen key] to change the pads and discs, but if you are only changing the pads, the a shortcut would be using the 7mm allen key and you don’t need the 15mm spanner)

Ideally you need a brake wind-back tool - The Laser 1314 Re-Wind tool set with a Laser 4342 Adapter (number 18) is quite a cheap but well suited kit - If you have a Jag XF, then with the rear brake wear issues, you will be changing them quite often, so a few quid to buy the correct tool is worth it.

Then some extras like a bit of string, or cable ties, brake and parts spray degreaser, cloths(kitchen roll) a jack/axle stand, pliers etc – all make the job easier, plus of course the parts! – Brake discs (pair), and pads, along with copper grease AND the brake wear sensor – IF the brake warning light came on – you need the sensor, you will also need the special washers which hold the brake discs on (two per disc).


Wait for a good rainy/cod/snowy… whatever day to do the job

Don’t know if it’s actually mandatory, but it always seems to work out that way for me! – but you do need a couple of hours to do the job.


The work

Park-up, chock the wheels, make sure the EPB is released and stop the engine.

Jack the rear up, support on axle stands and remove the wheel, you should have a view such as this below



Looking behind the disc, you can see two 14mm bolts – these need to be removed – see photo below for identification.




Note – if you are only doing the Pads, then instead of the procedure below, just remove the plastic caps as shown in the photo, and with a 7mm allen key (or 9mm for the front) remove the pins, remove the wire spring and slip the calliper part away, then wind-back as described below, fit the pads (similar to that below) and re-fit – then calibrate as described below.

Before completely removing the bolts, use a piece of string



To hold the calliper up, before pulling the disc off – there should be two special “clip” washers around two of the wheel studs holding the disc on, - prize these off as they will be replaced anyhow, and the disc pulls away – leaving you with this view – note there is no strain on the brake lines as it is held by the string which has now been tied up.



For the next bit, I re-attach using one of the bolts – only a couple of turns as this then hold the calliper steady whilst you remove the front wire spring (makes fitting the pads easier) and then the pads which just slide out, on the RH side, there is a sensor, follow the wire up to a slide-in connector – press the tab and disconnect, then release the retainers to remove the sensor with the pad.
After removal – wind the piston back in – using the tool the two pins engage in the two holes in the piston, fit the plate (comes with the tool), screw the bearing ring out tight, and then using the handle, just wind the tool in – see picture below



Note, this will force fluid back through the system into the reservoir under the bonnet (where you check the brake fluid level) – so make sure it is not full and keep an eye on this whilst you wind the piston back.

Now you are ready to re-assemble! – put some copper grease on the back of the pads (the one with the spring goes to the inside and needs the grease in the middle of the pad where it contacts the piston – it also takes the sensor on the RH side of the car – as fitted



The other pad without the spring needs the grease towards the ends where it rests against the calliper – see photo below – you can also re-fit the wire spring on the front again



Now the key bit – for the sexist amongst you – the bit I should be doing – the cleaning! Wire-brush the hub surface and degrease with brake & parts cleaner



Then de-grease both sides of the new disc - this is critical as it is supplied with a protective coating which will prevent the brakes from working!



Using the string again, remove the calliper bolt, slip the disc on and slide the calliper back on – then fit new bolts to hold the calliper back in place, note the disc can only go on one way – but you can tell that the recesses are to the outside



Once the calliper is bolted back in place and correctly tightened fit the two new retaining washer/clips as below – pus the retainers right down with pliers or a tube, re-run the sensor lead and re-connect (one side only) and re-fit the wheel.





Now – WITH the ENGINE OFF depress the brake several times to push the pads to the disc, and move to the other side & repeat the procedure on the other wheel/disc/pads.


Once you have completed this, lower the car to the ground, torque up the wheel nuts, and carry out the calibration procedure:


EPB - Reset Procedure (After Rear Pad Change)
Jaguar recommend that the EPB (hand brake) is calibrated as detailed below.
This is an update that applies to ALL XF, XK, XJ…etc and supersedes TSB JTB00208/2010 dated 31 August 2010

Cars Covered
S-TYPE VIN Range: M45255-N91220
XF VIN Range: R00001 Onwards
XK Range VIN Range: B00001 Onwards
XJ Range VIN Range: G00001-H30057
XJ Range VIN Range: V00001 Onwards

After completing any mechanical service work on the Park brake actuator, Park brake cables or rear brake callipers through which the Park brake operates (including brake pad replacement), the Park brake must be re-calibrated to the procedure in this bulletin. Failure to do this may result in incorrect operation of the Park brake, with warning lamps illuminating and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) C1801-00 or C1802-00 being stored.

1. Reset the EPB module as detailed below
a. Switch off the ignition.
b. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds (remove –ve battery connection).
c. Re-connect the battery.

2. Start the engine.

3. Firmly apply and release the footbrake five times.

4. Confirm that the message 'NOT CALIBRATED' or 'APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE' is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates that the parking brake is in calibration mode.

5. Lightly press the footbrake pedal.

6. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.

7. Release the parking brake.

8. Release the footbrake.

9. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the
instrument pack and that the 'NOT CALIBRATED' message is no
longer displayed in the message centre.

10. Apply and release the EPB five times to ensure no error is present
Job Done!

ADDITIONAL NOTES


As supporting info, there are a few points to note, the cost of this above work was (in 2013) around £106 (Mintex pads & Discs ~ £68; Rear Brake sensor inc new retaining washers ~£38), - plus around 1 ½ hours work (including the photos) – Jaguar quoted £480 for the job.

I had the tool from the pad change – but I think that is about £20 or so

You may be able to re-use the sensor – I did the first time when I just changed the pads, however this time it was too brittle, and I ended up taking 20mins off whilst I went for a new sensor.
The sensor fits to the spring – see photos below – to remove – pull the spring off the pad then to re-fit put the spring around the pin on the sensor and push the whole assembly back onto the pad – the reduced diameter portion of the pin slips in the slot in the pad – sorry about the poor picture quality I was working on the brakes at the time!



The discs are 20mm thick, and must be replaced at no less than 18mm – this is usually on the second set of pads – although if at your first pad change the disc thickness is less than 19mm – then before your next change it will be below 18mm so needs to be changed! – for example if it measures 18.8mm at the first pad change – it has lost 1.2mm over one set of pads, so over the next set it ought to lose another 1.2mm – so down to 17.6mm – too thin!

Hope this helps anyone

BB
 

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Great write up. Now the question that everyone will think but will be too scared to ask..... Did you chip your nails!!


Many years ago a friend of mine was at University doing Mechanical Engineering. One of the tasks was to strip and rebuild a car engine. There was a girl on their course who was malaysian, about 4 ft 10 in high with long red nails. She could strip and rebuild an engine much faster than any of the boys without damage to their nails. As this was the mid-1970's they were mortified....
 

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Very helpful to have a step by step guide with pictures. Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the write up, very interesting. The last time I changed disks and pads it was on a golf van in the early 80s. No sensors in those days to complicate things. If they charge me the same as you were quoted I might have to give it a go again.

Thanks again for the write up,

Kevin
 

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Hi BlondeBimbo, great write up. If the quality of this one is anything to go by, I have to find the other 2 you made since 2010 :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great write up. Now the question that everyone will think but will be too scared to ask..... Did you chip your nails!!


Many years ago a friend of mine was at University doing Mechanical Engineering. One of the tasks was to strip and rebuild a car engine. There was a girl on their course who was malaysian, about 4 ft 10 in high with long red nails. She could strip and rebuild an engine much faster than any of the boys without damage to their nails. As this was the mid-1970's they were mortified....
If I'd chipped my nails I would have been too devastated to do a write-up!

Hi BlondeBimbo, great write up. If the quality of this one is anything to go by, I have to find the other 2 you made since 2010 :D
I think they were about the time I was buying the Jag - I can't remember but I think they were just general questions

Thanks all for the kind comments


BB
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can't appear to edit the above post - I just get a blank edit pane - without the original text to edit - so....

Please forgive the spelling in places - it doesn't matter how many times one reads it - it is only once posted that the errors become obvious!

Also, I missed a bit off the end:

There may be a lip around the edge of the brake disc - depending upon how pronounced it is, this may prevent you slipping the calliper off, so the "long" way around this is to use both the 7mm allen key AND the 15mm spanner!

Basically - follow the brief instructions to remove the 1/2 calliper - i.e. remove the plastic caps as shown in the photo, and with a 7mm allen key (or 9mm for the front) remove the pins, remove the wire spring and slip the calliper part away, remove the pads, then re-fit the 1/2 calliper re-fitting the pins & plastic dust caps; and then remove the two 15mm headed bolts to remove the whole calliper and then follow as described.

BB
 

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I changed my brake pads and discs front and rear as follows:-

1. Call dealer to confirm symptoms and book a service slot.
2. Take car to the dealer at the allotted date and time and ask a mate to pick me up
3. Ask mate to drop me off at end of day to collect the car and pay for work or have it done foc under warranty / post-sales
4. Drive the car gently for a while to let the brakes bed in nicely

Joking aside, an excellent writeup for those who do this themselves.
 

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Fantastic write up BB. Glad to hear the exposed nail wasn't chipped, what an added bonus lol.
 

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Thanks BB reading your how to post has tempted me to have a go when the time comes:D many thanks TM
 

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Thanks BB for an excellent post. After being quoted £480 to change rear pads and discs which I thought was outrageous, I decided to do it myself. Disc and pads from Euro Car Parts £90 inc vat. Lazer rewind tool from Screwfix £18-99
time taken 1 1/4 hours. Didn't reset the electronic parking brake - as others have posted there is no reason to. What planet are the Jag dealers on thinking £480 is a reasonable price for this???? It was so easy I have just done my wifes XK8 rears too (exactly the same)
 

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Brilliant write-up, very impressed. Rear pads, discs and sensor replaced at 40k so probably have to do it again (maybe several times!)
 

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Brilliant write-up, very impressed. Rear pads, discs and sensor replaced at 40k so probably have to do it again (maybe several times!)
great write up and very good times.....did all my discs and pads a few months back...using just hand tools and a single trolley jack took me just over 2 hours...chunk of that was moving the car around in the driveway to get room for each wheel.
Jaguar wanted a little over £1k to do it...cost me around £160...they claimed it was a 4-5 hour job....even when I said about the offer prices they had on disc changes at the time I just got a blank look but even then it would have been over £600
 

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I have only one thing to say, and I mean this as a compliment, and not at all patronising. RESPECT!! What an informative and well put together 'How To'. It should be a sticky.
 

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great thread by BB, well done! I was wondering if anyone thought about cleaning the caliper pistons while they were at it? I used to do this on my yamaha r1s and Suzuki bandit where you could push out (or even remove) the pistons by blowing them using a compressor. On the suzuki you could also split the calipers - four allen bolts (I think) - and replace the piston seals. maybe a bit over the top for car brakes tho??? I loved to have demon brakes but I guess I got a bit anal when I teflon coated the pistons to make them slide easier!!
 

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I see Blondebimbo used Mintex. In ECP you have the choice of Pagid or Eicher - both of which seem to be made by TMD. What manufacturers did peeps use?
 

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Just ordered a set of Mintex drilled and grooved discs for my XF along with new pads, new sensors, new washers and a wind-back tool (used to just use a screw driver on the bikes, but, car callipers are a bit bigger.)

Gonna do the work this Saturday as it is forecast a nice day.

What I found interesting is that when Jaguar went from the 2.7D to the 3.0D the front discs became 355mm from 326mm, but, when they released the facelift model in 2011 the front discs were reduced to 326mm again. The rear discs on all three models are 326mm.
 

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I have read your excellent instructions for replacing the discs which I will need to soon I think. When I say I, I hope to persuade my brother to do it !
There is one point in the EPB reset procedure I don't understand which is point 7 where you say "release the parking brake". I am probably being a bit thick here but how do you do that without starting the car and applying the throttle ? Have I been missing something, sorry !
 
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